Fire-tailed Myzornis from Pangolakha Wildlife Sanctuary Slender-billed Scimitar Babbler Pangolakha Wildlife Sanctuary

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Tuesday, 28 July 2015

Padamchen / Phadamchen, Zuluk / Dzuluk, Thambi, Dhupidara / Lungthung, Lungthu, Gnathang / Nathang | April 2015

As I have mentioned in my earlier blog post regarding the ecology of Pangolakha Wildlife Sanctuary, nothing changes much at this higher altitude above 10,000 ft, except climate. The month of November 2014, (if you have gone through previous blog) was quite comfortable, not much cold was there; but the months of April in the places at and above Zuluk (9,700 ft), Thambi view point (11,200 ft), Dhupidara (11,500 ft), Lungthu (12,500 ft), Nathang valley (13,500 - 14,000 ft) was too much chilling thus proper warm cloths were very much required. HAS (High altitude sickness) or AMS (Acute mountain sickness) can affect one, while out for birding, without proper warm vests and jackets.

The months of January and February are mostly inaccessible at this altitude. Most of the major birding starts in this area from the months of March and April. Partly clear weather and the onset of monsoon keeps the avian fauna busy for this time only. Bird activity rises at its peak in the 2nd and 3rd week of April. Though too much rain is unexpected, but no one can guarantee the gathering of cloud formation and thereby creation of low pressure head against higher hills of Bhutan. Thus if it rains in the lower altitude below 9,000 ft; hail storm along with knee deep snow fall is a must, above 10,000 ft. Frankly speaking, one should never be disappointed if such situation takes place; rather they should convert this thing as an opportunity - How?


Under this kind of circumstances, birds from extremely high altitude (i.e. on and above 13,000 ft) come down below 10,000 ft. This miniature bird fall gives rise to bird count and enhances the list, where a good birder can list something unexpected too.

This was the situation on 16th of April '15, around 04:45 PM in the evening and the outcome was a flock of Plain Mountain Finch, Altai Accentor and Rufous-breasted Accentor (See the image).

Sudden cloud formation against Bhutan hills - rain in lower altitude - This was the situation in Zuluk in the afternoon on 16th April '15. The flock of birds arrived from higher altitude beside the homestay. What a luck!
Main passageway of the homestay was block for 30 mins until the snow melted down. In Nepalese language, slight snowfall or hails are called 'Ola'; whereas in Uttarakhand Garhwali people call it 'Pala'. 
When the snow almost melted down and hail storm stopped; Accentors came to the verandah of the rooms adjacent to it. If the blog seems boring to you, stop reading it and close the tab! Otherwise continue ....
Very little snow was there in Verandah. See the next image where you will see the flock of birds consisting of species like Plain Mountain Finch, Rufous-breasted Accentor and most important one Altai Accentor.
Mixed flock of Accentors and Finches

Altai Accentor - From the mixed flock; the ultimate outcome due to sudden outburst of weather


Some classy catches in terms of birding (mostly bird photography) are listed below:

Rufous-capped Babbler - A tiny gem from the jungles of Northeast India has been in my wish list. It is tough to get them in open; but I consider myself lucky. 
Fire-tailed Myzornis - Everytime I take photograph of this bird and I rediscover something new from it. In my 62 birding days in Sikkim I saw it only 7 times.
Mandelli's Leaf Warbler - My confusion was - Hume's or a Mandellie's? ID help: Tim Inskipp. Split based on zoogeographic barrier 'P. h. madellii'
                   
Kalij Pheasant - In the early morning on 21st April '15, when I was getting down from Zuluk to Rongli, Nima daju saw a murgi like creature beside the bush thickets while I was still sleeping; he pointed it out and called me; took this image from the car. Since, we were in a hurry we left the flock of 6 birds there and moved down.In Uttarakhand, what we see is of "Hamiltonii" subspecie with white crest; but here in Sikkim it is of "Melanota" subspecie with black crest. Photographed one is male (♂).
Black-throated Parrotbill - Small and cute! As that of Myzornis and small babblers, they also dwell in bamboo thickets.
heart emoticon you cutie smile emoticon
Hoary-throated Barwing - Why the bird is called "Barwing"? see its throat coloration also!  . Hoary-throated Barwings are plenty across bamboo thickets; they forage mostly in mixed flock with scimitar babblers.
Brown Parrotbill - During my solo birding trip of 9 days, I have spotted the location; when rest of the birders joined me in the trip on 11th day, they saw it too in the same location
Himalayan Monal (male ♂) - On 23rd April afternoon, took the shot when co-birders Rajesh Panwar, Sheela Panwar, Udayan Behura and Tanuja Sethi accompanied me. Rajesh and Sheela are the most renowned birding couple in Uttarakhand, who spend more than 300 days per year for birding only. Udayan and Tanuja hail from Odisha, and are some of the best marksman till date I experienced on field.  
Golden-naped Finch - A black one, this finch is way too different looking than that of others and that is what makes it a special kind. It was really a difficult exposure time considering the coloration of the bird. Though +1/3rd exposure value was set, still some details are missing in it, underexposing would kill the bird.
Kevin Smith, a birder from UK says, "
I have the opposite with white Gannets and dark Puffins against white sea cliffs..Try to visit on overcast days"
White-browed Rosefinch - The day before this prized catch, it rained heavily all over the night. Though it is unlikely to rain in the third week of April, but no one can guarantee. As soon as, sun came out on next day morning, bird activity rose at its peak following the sunshine throughout the slope. Thus don't be disappointed when you see a gloomy sky; be hopeful always. If sun comes out for a half an hour window, probably you would experience the best bird activity, than that of those days when it is fully sunny.
Eurasian Tree Sparrow - What would you do when you are going to photograph birds in snow? Would you overexpose or underexpose? wink emoticon
A little overexpose if necessary - say +1/3 or +2/3; otherwise against high contrasting background birds will appear darker. By chance, if you are looking for details of the bird and underexpose; then there would be only you responsible for killing the bird image. Keep your hands steady, even if you are getting slower shutter speed, you can still manage some shots. n


Enjoy birding in snow!!!

Yes, in India too one can do the same, as that of others do while out in foreign location. Here are the images of birds in snow and birders enjoying a totally new experience. Here, you don't have to trek or hike at higher altitude, birders and tour participants would go by dedicated car and would get down from the car if necessary.

Sometimes it is better to take a habitat shot than of capturing portraits of the birds. A lonely plain mountain finch on a tree branch when snow flakes are everywhere covering the faces of folks around.




















Night scape from Nathang Valley (at 13,500 ft)
Udayan Sarathi, Tanuja Sethi from Odisha at Nathang
Early morning old tibetan monastery at Nathang


Check the list of birds - <Birdlist>

It is not only birds that we saw, some mammalian fauna has been documented too during this trip. Hope you will enjoy the beauty of some of the rarest and least photographed mammalian species from Sikkim.
Yellow-throated Marten - My first ever Marten from Pangolakha. In Uttarakhand, Chopta-Tungnath area during Summer and in the foothills during winter these mammalian specie is recorded; whereas in Sikkim they are least seen and not much photographed. I consider myself lucky on this occasion.

Siberian Weasel - (WPA ii) - An elusive mammal; active during early morning and late afternoon.
Bhutan Giant Flying Squirrel - A totally nocturnal mammal; photographed on the way to Old Silk route.
Himalayan Niviventer - Beside pikas, they also inhibit higher altitudes of Sikkim Himalayas.

Some images and videos captured by tour participants in April:

Rajesh Panwar & Sheela Panwar:

Himalayan Monal
White-browed Fulvetta
Spotted Laughingthrush

Tanuja Sethi:
Sikkim Diaries!

Udayan Sarathi:

Rufous-breasted Accentor
Snowfall at Nathang
Cloudpass at Zuluk


Other Helpful Information:
  1. Where to Stay: Stay options are very limited. Arrangements are made in prior notice only. On twin and triple sharing basis homestays are arranged for enthusiasts by GoingWild.
  2. Best time to visit: Try to avoid this place in the months of monsoon, otherwise it is a premium location for rest eight months. Early November to late May is the best time for birding and bird photography.
  3. Point of Contact: Send a mail to support@goingwild.in
    One can also reach to +91-9681417974 (Dibyendu Ash) or +91-8017804277 (Soumyajit Nandy) or +91-9163631493 (Tamanud Mitra) for guided birding all over the Old-Silk Route. Arrangement for clean and subtle homestays, dedicated car for entire birding trip along with a naturalist-cum-birder are done by GoingWild.
Hope you enjoyed the reading, feel free to share!

Monday, 16 March 2015

Birding at Pangolakha Wildlife Sanctuary (ii) | Padamchen / Phadamchen, Zuluk / Dzuluk, Gnathang / Nathang | November 2014

This is the place bounded between Bedang Tso or Bedang lake and Nathu La complex of North-east Sikkim. The total area that falls under upper Pangolakha region can be segmented broadly into five different regions based on human habitat.

Nimachen - Nimachen is a small hamlet after Lingtam on Old-Silk Route at an altitude of 6000 ft. The famous Keokhola falls which mixes with Rangpo river below passes through this area. This place is at a distance of 4 Km from Lingtam.

Padamchen (or Phadamchen) - Padamchen, is a small hamlet in the old silk route, at a distance of 5.5 Km from Nimachen, which has 60 families and a small school along the northern slope of the hill. Entire population in this hamlet is as many as 300 as of 2014. Altitude of Padamchen is around 7000 ft and mostly covered by temperate broadleaf forests with thick undergrowth vegetation.

Zuluk (or Dzuluk) - Zuluk has an army cantonment set up along side a very small human population. Stay options in Zuluk are homestays only. This place is at an altitude of 9000 ft and mostly covered by pines and steppe grassland. Few places have isolated forest patch due to ease of army surveillance. The main attraction of this area is the zigzag road. On clear days one can see the magnificence of mighty Kanchenjunga from a nearby Tambi viewpoint. This place is at a distance of 10 Km from Padamchen. Few areas in Zuluk are restricted for photographers, since those areas lie under army surveillance. From Padamchen to the highest point at Zuluk, one will cover more than 5000 ft within an hour car drive. All credits go to the magnificent zig-zag road architecture by BRO.

View of Himalayas from Thambi | Matrix panorama of 23 images | Taken during birding tour of Nov '14 | GoingWild











Gnathang Valley - Gnathang valley, in one word, is a heaven! As soon as you cross Laxman Chowk, you will notice that vegetation in most of the places are covered by rocky outcrops, rhododendron shrubbies, steppe grassland and high-altitude marsh land. Gnathang Valley is at a distance of 22Km from Zuluk but lies above the snowline, ice shield covers this place for almost four months. When monsoon takes over lower regions, snow blisters and hail storm would take place in this area during that period. Altitude of Gnathang Valley is around 14000 ft and oxygen level is also lower by 1/3rd than that of plains. Since this place is a must visit for high altitude birders, GoingWild mentors will assist you for your successful birding trip in this cold desert climate.
Gnathang Valley | Photographed during birding tour of Nov '14 | GoingWild























Kupup - Kupup is the last bordering village in Old-Silk Route at an altitude of 14200 ft and at a distance of 18 Km from Gnathang Valley. Jelep La pass (now in China) and Bhutan hills are within one's visible range. Though few places have restricted access for photographers, most of the places are so beautiful, that, it will be a memory to cherish all over your life. 

For birding and bird photography, this place is truly a heaven in East Sikkim.

Click here >> Bird list consisting of 63 Birds.

Below are the 6 Key species that has been photographed in this area in the month of Nov '14:-


Black-eared Shrike Babbler
Eurasian Tree Sparrow
Winter Wren


Himalayan Buzzard
Rufous-breasted Accentor
White-spectacled Warbler

A special finding during the birding trip - Himalayan Brown Goral (Naemorhedus goral)

Himalayan Brown Goral (Naemorhedus goral)
Also, we saw 8 Monals in three days, here are some sample images attached together:- 
Himalayan Monal (Lophophorus impejanus)


Other Helpful Information:
  1. Where to Stay: Stay options are very limited. Arrangements are made in prior notice only. On twin and triple sharing basis home stays are arranged for enthusiasts by GoingWild.
  2. Best time to visit: Try to avoid this place in the months of monsoon, otherwise it is a premium location for rest eight months. Early November to late May is the best time for birding and bird photography.
  3. Point of Contact: Send a mail to support@goingwild.in
    One can also reach to +91-9681417974 or +91-8017804277 or +91-9163631493 for guided birding all over the Old-Silk Route. Arrangement for clean and subtle home stays, dedicated car for entire birding trip along with a naturalist-cum-birder are done by GoingWild.